Tortolì

Tortolì is the main town of Ogliastra, the region on the east coast squeezed between the Gennargentu and the sea. With its seaside district, Arbatax, it is the gateway to one of the most spectacular coasts in Sardinia: red porphyry rocks, white beaches, coves reachable by boat along the Gulf of Orosei and mountains behind. It is also a lively little town, with a port, a small airport, shops and bars, and a farming tradition of vineyards, olive groves and vegetable gardens.

History

The Tortolì area was inhabited in pre-Nuragic and Nuragic times, as shown by menhirs, domus de janas and the S'Ortali 'e su Monte complex, with a nuraghe, a giants' tomb and a village. In Roman times the eastern road ran along the coast. In the Middle Ages Tortolì belonged to the Giudicato of Cagliari, in the curatoria of Ogliastra, and from 1824 it was the seat of the new diocese of Ogliastra, later moved to Lanusei in the 20th century. From 2005 to 2016 Tortolì shared with Lanusei the role of capital of the province of Ogliastra.

Arbatax, the seaside village, grew up around the port and the Spanish tower of San Miguel, built to defend the coast from pirates. The name seems to come from Arabic and would mean fourteenth tower. In the 20th century Arbatax developed with the paper mill and shipyards, and today it lives mainly from tourism and fishing.

The Red Rocks

The symbol of Arbatax is the Rocce Rosse, tall pinnacles of red porphyry rising from the sea next to the port, creating a landscape of intense colour, especially at sunset. Summer concerts and shows are held here. Not far away the Capo Bellavista lighthouse overlooks the coast, and from the headland you can see the Gulf of Orosei and the mountains of Ogliastra.

Beaches

The Tortolì and Arbatax coastline is long and varied. Orrì beach is a series of pale sandy coves between granite rocks, with shallow clear water, ideal for families. Cala Moresca, north of the port, is a small bay among the rocks. Porto Frailis beach, near the tower, is sheltered and popular. Further south are the long Cartiera beach, Lido di Orrì and Musculedda. In summer boat trips leave Arbatax every day for the Gulf of Orosei, with Cala Goloritzé, Cala Mariolu, Cala Sisine, Cala Luna and the Bue Marino caves, one of the finest experiences in Sardinia.

The lagoon and nature

Next to the town lies the Tortolì lagoon, where fish are farmed and traditional fishing is practised; flamingos and other water birds live here too. Behind the coast rise the mountains of Ogliastra, with limestone tacchi and holm oak forests: close by are the villages of Baunei, with the Golgo plateau and Pedra Longa, and Lanusei, with the Selene wood.

Archaeology

The S'Ortali 'e su Monte archaeological complex, on a hill in Tortolì, includes a complex nuraghe, a giants' tomb, menhirs and the remains of a village, and can be visited with guides. The area also has domus de janas and the Bau 'e Tanca nuraghe.

Festivals

The most important festival is that of Sant'Andrea, patron of Tortolì, in late November, while summer brings other feasts with processions, traditional costumes and fireworks. In January the Sant'Antonio bonfires are lit. In summer Arbatax hosts concerts and events beneath the Red Rocks.

Food

Ogliastra cooking is among the richest in Sardinia. The signature dish is culurgiones, ravioli filled with potato, pecorino cheese and mint, closed in the shape of an ear of wheat, which have PGI status. People also eat roast meat, suckling pig, fish from the lagoon and sea, and sweets such as pardulas. The wine is Cannonau, grown on the surrounding hills.

Getting there

Tortolì is about two hours from Cagliari and Olbia along the SS125 Orientale Sarda or the new road, and about an hour and a half from Nuoro. The port of Arbatax has ferries to Civitavecchia and Genoa at certain times of year. In summer the Trenino Verde leaves Arbatax for the interior, crossing the mountains of Ogliastra to Lanusei and beyond. Tortolì is an ideal base to visit Baunei and Santa Maria Navarrese, Lanusei, Dorgali and the Gulf of Orosei.

What to see

• Rocce rosse di Arbatax
• Beach of Orrì
• Porto Frailis
• Church of Sant'Andrea

Festivals and traditions

• Sant'Anna26 July
• San Lussorio21 August

Nearby beaches

• Rocce Rosse, Arbatax5 km
• Marina di Orrì5 km
• Cea8 km
• Cala Goloritzé21 km

Nearby hikes

• Cala Goloritzé21 km
• Selvaggio Blu24 km
• Punta La Marmora30 km

Nearby towns

• Girasole · 3 km
• Lotzorai · 5 km
• Bari Sardo · 10 km
• Loceri · 10 km
• Ilbono · 10 km
• Arzana · 11 km
• Elini · 11 km
• Lanusei · 11 km

Sources: Grande Enciclopedia della Sardegna; ISTAT. Original texts by Gotosardinia.