Lanusei

Lanusei is the historic capital of Ogliastra, set at about 600 metres on the slopes of a wooded mountain facing the sea. Its view, embracing the Tortolì plain, the Arbatax coast and the Tyrrhenian Sea, earns it the name of balcony of Ogliastra. It is a quiet, orderly town, a bishop's seat, with a compact historic centre, schools, offices and services, and a territory of woods, springs and archaeological sites. The cool summer air and the closeness of both the sea and the Gennargentu mountains make it a pleasant base to discover Ogliastra.

History

The Lanusei area was inhabited in the Nuragic age, as shown by the village, nuraghe and giants' tombs of Bosco Selene. In the Middle Ages the town belonged to the Giudicato of Cagliari, in the curatoria of Ogliastra, and then passed to the Pisans, the Aragonese and the Carroz, feudal lords of the area. In the 19th and 20th centuries Lanusei became the administrative centre of Ogliastra and in the 20th century the seat of the diocese, with the seminary and bishop's palace. From 2005 to 2016 it shared with Tortolì the role of capital of the province of Ogliastra.

The town

The old centre spreads along climbing streets and stairways, with stone houses, balconies and small gardens. The cathedral of Santa Maria Maddalena, rebuilt in the 19th and 20th centuries, dominates the town with its façade and dome. Next to it are the bishop's palace and the seminary, and nearby the Ogliastra Diocesan Museum, displaying sacred furnishings, paintings, sculptures and objects from the diocese's churches. Walking around you find viewpoints with views stretching to the sea.

Bosco Selene

A few kilometres from the centre, Bosco Selene is a nature and archaeological park in a holm oak wood. It has a Nuragic village with stone huts, a nuraghe and two giants' tombs, among the best preserved in Ogliastra. It is ideal for a shady walk, a picnic and an introduction to Nuragic civilisation in an evocative setting. The woods around Lanusei have trails, springs and picnic areas.

Nature

The Lanusei area rises from the hills to the Gennargentu mountains, with woods of holm oak, chestnut and downy oak. Nearby are Monte Armidda and the Ulassai plateau, with the Tacchi d'Ogliastra, tower-shaped limestone mountains, caves such as Su Marmuri and Maria Lai's Stazione dell'arte at Ulassai. Towards the sea the road drops in a few minutes to the coast of Tortolì and Arbatax.

Festivals

The main festival is that of Santa Maria Maddalena, the patron saint, in July, with a procession in traditional costume and celebrations. In January the Sant'Antonio bonfires are lit, and in summer saints' feasts and food fairs liven up the town. In spring and autumn there are events devoted to Ogliastra produce.

Food

Lanusei cooking is that of Ogliastra: culurgiones, ravioli of potato, cheese and mint, handmade pasta, roast meats, goat and sheep cheese, honey and almond sweets. The wine is Cannonau, grown on the surrounding hills, like that of nearby Jerzu, one of the most famous areas for this grape.

Getting there

Lanusei is about 15 minutes from Tortolì and the port of Arbatax, and about two hours from Cagliari. In summer the Trenino Verde passes through, linking Arbatax with the interior across the mountains of Ogliastra. From here you easily reach Tortolì, Baunei, Ulassai, Jerzu and the Gennargentu.

What to see

• Cathedral of Santa Maria Maddalena
• Parco archeologico del bosco di Seleni
• Old town
• Stazione del trenino verde

Festivals and traditions

• Maria Ausiliatrice, ultima domenica di luglioJuly

Nearby beaches

• Cea12 km
• Marina di Orrì13 km
• Rocce Rosse, Arbatax16 km

Nearby hikes

• Punta La Marmora23 km
• Cala Goloritzé29 km

Nearby towns

• Ilbono · 2 km
• Elini · 3 km
• Loceri · 4 km
• Gairo · 4 km
• Arzana · 5 km
• Osini · 7 km
• Ulassai · 8 km
• Jerzu · 10 km

Sources: Grande Enciclopedia della Sardegna; ISTAT. Original texts by Gotosardinia.