Olbia, Sardinia: what to see, festivals and where to stay

Olbia is the gateway to north-east Sardinia: every year millions of travellers pass through on their way to the Costa Smeralda, San Teodoro and the La Maddalena archipelago. Many rush through it, from the airport or the port to the beaches. But Olbia is also a city with a very long history, a pleasant old town, a sheltered gulf facing the island of Tavolara and some beautiful beaches within its own territory. It is worth stopping at least a day, and perhaps choosing it as a base for exploring Gallura.

The happy city

The name Olbia comes from Greek and means happy. The natural harbour, deep and sheltered at the end of a gulf, was used in nuragic times, as the sacred wells and villages nearby show. In the 7th century BC the Phoenicians and perhaps the Greeks settled here; the Carthaginians surrounded it with walls in the 4th century. Under the Romans Olbia became Sardinia's main port towards Rome and Italy: grain, hides and minerals left from here, and goods arrived from all over the Mediterranean.

In the Middle Ages, under the name Civita, it was the capital of the Giudicato of Gallura, one of the four Sardinian kingdoms, and seat of a diocese. In decline after the Aragonese conquest, for centuries it was called Terranova, and later Terranova Pausania. Only in 1939 did it take back its ancient name of Olbia. Its great growth came in the second half of the 20th century, with the development of the port, the airport and the Costa Smeralda, which since the 1960s has made Gallura one of the most famous destinations in the Mediterranean.

The Roman ships

One of Sardinia's most important archaeological discoveries was made in Olbia's harbour itself. Between 1999 and 2001, during work on a tunnel under the seafront, the wrecks of some twenty Roman and medieval ships came to light, some sunk in the 5th century, perhaps during a Vandal attack. The ships were recovered, restored and partly displayed in the Archaeological Museum, built on the islet of Peddone in the old harbour, in a modern building shaped like a ship. The museum tells the city's whole story, from the nuragic people and Phoenicians to the Romans and the Middle Ages.

The basilica of San Simplicio

Olbia's most important monument is the basilica of San Simplicio, the largest Romanesque church in Gallura. Built of granite between the late 11th and early 12th centuries, on the site where tradition says the city's first bishop, martyred in 304, was buried, it has three aisles divided by pillars and columns and a plain, solemn façade. Inside are fragments of medieval frescoes and reused Roman inscriptions. For centuries it was the cathedral, and it is the heart of the feast of San Simplicio in mid-May.

The old town

Olbia's centre runs along Corso Umberto, the main street, which descends from the station to the old harbour between 19th-century granite buildings, shops and bars. Halfway along the corso is Piazza Margherita, and nearby the church of San Paolo, built on an ancient temple, with its dome covered in coloured majolica tiles, clearly visible from the sea. The side lanes, with low houses and small fish restaurants, keep the look of old Terranova. In the evening the corso fills for the passeggiata, and the waterfront towards the harbour is perfect for an aperitivo.

Beneath the modern city ancient remains surface here and there: stretches of the Punic walls, the San Simplicio necropolis and the remains of the Roman aqueduct at Sa Rughittula on the outskirts.

Prehistory around the city

Olbia's territory is rich in nuragic monuments. The sacred well of Sa Testa is a water temple with steps leading down to the spring, preceded by a circular courtyard. The Su Mont'e s'Abe giants' tomb, with its large stele, is a few kilometres from the city. On the hill of Cabu Abbas stands the Riu Mulinu nuraghe, a fortified enclosure at almost three hundred metres, with an extraordinary view over the gulf and Tavolara. South of the city, on a granite hill, rise the ruins of Pedres castle, built in the 13th century by the judges of Gallura.

Beaches

Olbia's territory has beaches that have nothing to envy the nearby Costa Smeralda. North of the city come Pittulongu, the locals' beach, long and well equipped, Bados, Il Pellicano and Sos Aranzos, with clear water and views of the island of Figarolo. To the south, towards Porto San Paolo, are Le Saline, Lido del Sole and above all Porto Istana, a series of coves of white sand and turquoise water right in front of Tavolara. Further north, Porto Rotondo, partly in the municipality of Olbia, is an elegant marina with its own beaches.

Tavolara

The outline of Tavolara, a huge limestone mountain rising more than five hundred metres from the sea, is the strongest image of the gulf. The island is part of the Tavolara and Punta Coda Cavallo Marine Protected Area, with splendid seabeds, posidonia meadows, dolphins and groupers. It is reached by boat from Porto San Paolo or on excursions from Olbia; on the island there is a small beach, Spalmatore, with a couple of restaurants. Tavolara is also famous for its tiny kingdom: in the 19th century the Bertoleoni family proclaimed themselves its rulers, and the story of the world's smallest kingdom is still proudly told.

The gulf and its mussels

The Gulf of Olbia is one of Italy's main mussel-farming areas: the rows of farms can be seen in the water at the harbour entrance. Olbia's mussels are the base of many local dishes, marinara style, in soup or with fregola, and are celebrated with a festival in May. Alongside the sea, Gallura cooking brings suppa cuata, a baked soup of bread, cheese and broth, chjusoni pasta, lamb and cheeses. To drink, Vermentino di Gallura, Sardinia's only DOCG wine.

Gallura around Olbia

From Olbia the Costa Smeralda is half an hour away, with Porto Cervo and the beaches of Arzachena, such as Capriccioli, Liscia Ruja and Il Principe. Further north are Palau, with ferries to the La Maddalena archipelago, and Santa Teresa Gallura. To the south, San Teodoro with La Cinta and Cala Brandinchi, and Loiri Porto San Paolo. Inland, Tempio Pausania, the historic capital of Gallura, Monte Limbara, the Vermentino vineyards of Monti and Berchidda, and granite hills dotted with stazzi farmsteads.

Getting there and around

Olbia Costa Smeralda airport is a few minutes from the centre and has flights from many Italian and European cities, especially in summer. The Isola Bianca port receives ferries from Genoa, Livorno, Civitavecchia and Piombino. The city has urban buses; for the beaches and the surroundings a hire car or scooter is useful. In summer traffic towards the Costa Smeralda can be heavy, so set off early in the morning. Olbia is worth visiting all year round, but spring and early autumn, with the sea still warm and fewer crowds, are the best times.