La Maddalena

La Maddalena is the municipality of the archipelago of the same name, a group of pink granite islands and crystal-clear waters between Sardinia and Corsica, in the Strait of Bonifacio. Protected since 1994 as a National Park, the archipelago is one of the most beautiful places in the Mediterranean: white and pink sand beaches, coves reachable only by boat, rocks carved by the wind into incredible shapes and seabeds of an almost unreal blue. But La Maddalena also has a unique history of Corsican shepherds, English admirals, a young Napoleon defeated and a hero of two worlds who chose to live and die here: Giuseppe Garibaldi.

The archipelago

The archipelago has seven main islands, La Maddalena, Caprera, Santo Stefano, Spargi, Budelli, Razzoli and Santa Maria, and dozens of islets and rocks. Only La Maddalena and Caprera, joined by a bridge, are permanently inhabited; the others are visited by boat, on excursions that leave every morning from the port of Cala Gavetta, from Palau and from the Gallura coast. The National Park protects a marine and land environment of great value, with posidonia meadows, seabirds such as Audouin's gull and the European shag, and maquis scented with juniper, lentisk and helichrysum.

A frontier history

For centuries the islands were inhabited only by shepherds, many from Corsica, who lived in stazzi and moved their flocks from island to island. In 1767 the House of Savoy, rulers of the Kingdom of Sardinia, occupied the archipelago to control the Strait of Bonifacio, and the town of La Maddalena grew up around the port of Cala Gavetta, with its military base.

In 1793 the archipelago was attacked by a French expedition from Corsica, in which a young artillery officer named Napoleon Bonaparte was fighting. The attack was repulsed by the islanders led by the boatswain Domenico Millelire, who received the first gold medal of the Sardinian navy. A few years later, between 1803 and 1805, Admiral Horatio Nelson's British fleet used the La Maddalena roadstead as a base to watch the French fleet at Toulon; Nelson gave the town's church a crucifix and two silver candlesticks, still kept in the parish of Santa Maria Maddalena.

Since then La Maddalena has remained a navy town: throughout the 19th and 20th centuries it hosted bases of the Royal and then the Italian Navy, and from 1972 to 2008 a US Navy base on the island of Santo Stefano.

Caprera and Garibaldi

Caprera, the island of goats, is forever linked to the name of Giuseppe Garibaldi. The hero of two worlds bought most of it in 1856 and lived here between expeditions until his death in 1882, working the land, raising animals and receiving visitors from all over the world. His house, the Casa Bianca, with its garden, stable, mill and the places of his daily life, is today the Compendio Garibaldino, a national museum and one of the most visited in Sardinia. In the garden is Garibaldi's tomb, a simple block of granite.

Caprera is also one of the archipelago's most beautiful islands, covered in pine woods and maquis, with trails and wonderful coves: Cala Coticcio, called little Tahiti, reachable on foot by a path or by boat, Cala Brigantina, Due Mari and Cala Portese.

The town

The town of La Maddalena spreads around the small harbour of Cala Gavetta, with colourful houses, squares and shopping streets such as Via Garibaldi and Piazza Umberto I. In the evening the centre fills with strollers and bars. The church of Santa Maria Maddalena keeps Nelson's gifts, and the Naval Archaeological Museum tells the story of ancient routes between Sardinia and Corsica, with the amphora cargo of a Roman ship sunk off Spargi in the 1st century BC. The Museum of the Sea and Seafaring and the Garibaldi Memorial complete the cultural offer.

The scenic road, some twenty kilometres long, circles the main island among granite rocks, beaches and viewpoints: Bassa Trinita, Spalmatore, Cala Lunga and Monti della Rena. It is perfect by scooter or bicycle.

The smaller islands

The best way to discover the archipelago is a full-day boat trip. Spargi offers Cala Corsara, one of the most famous coves, with white sand and turquoise water, and Cala Granara. Budelli is famous for the Pink Beach, coloured by fragments of a marine micro-organism: to protect it, walking and swimming there are now forbidden, but you can admire it from the sea or the path. Between Budelli, Razzoli and Santa Maria lies the Piscina naturale, a stretch of shallow turquoise water between the islands and one of the most photographed places in the Mediterranean. Santa Maria has fine sand beaches and a small lighthouse.

To protect the environment, access to some areas of the Park is regulated and boats must follow specific zones and rules: authorised excursions know the best places and times.

Festivals and food

The most important festival is that of Santa Maria Maddalena, the patron saint, on 22 July, with a procession, fireworks over the sea and a rowing regatta. Maddalena cooking is of the sea, with Corsican and Ligurian influences: fish soups, lobster, sea urchins, octopus and land dishes of the Gallura tradition. The wine is Vermentino di Gallura.

Getting there

La Maddalena is reached by ferry from Palau, with frequent sailings all year and a crossing of about twenty minutes; cars can be taken on board. Palau is about forty minutes from the airport and port of Olbia. On the island it is easy to get around by scooter, bike or local bus. The best period is May to October: July and August are very crowded, while June and September offer the finest sea. From here you can easily visit Santa Teresa Gallura, Arzachena and the Costa Smeralda, and reach Corsica on the ferries to Bonifacio.

What to see

• Compendio garibaldino di Caprera
• Strada panoramica e calette
• Gite in barca nell'arcipelago
• Spiaggia Rosa di Budelli, da vedere dal mare
• Cala Coticcio
• Old town e lungomare

Festivals and traditions

• Santa Maria Maddalena22 July

Nearby beaches

• Cala Coticcio, Caprera6 km
• Spiaggia del Principe18 km
• Rena Bianca, Santa Teresa18 km
• Capriccioli20 km
• Liscia Ruja21 km

Nearby hikes

• Valle della Luna, Capo Testa23 km

Nearby towns

• Palau · 4 km
• Arzachena · 15 km
• Santa Teresa Gallura · 18 km
• Luogosanto · 25 km
• Sant'Antonio di Gallura · 26 km
• Aglientu · 29 km
• Golfo Aranci · 30 km
• Olbia · 33 km

Sources: Grande Enciclopedia della Sardegna; ISTAT. Original texts by Gotosardinia.