San Simplicio, Olbia's festival

People arriving in Olbia for the first time think mainly of the port, the airport and the Costa Smeralda. But in mid-May the city shows another face, that of an old community celebrating its patron. This is sa festa manna de Mesu Maju, the great mid-May festival, dedicated to San Simplicio, bishop and martyr, patron of Olbia and Gallura.

The martyr bishop

According to tradition, Simplicio was the first bishop of Olbia, which in Roman times was one of Sardinia's most important ports. He was killed during Diocletian's persecution in 304 and buried in a necropolis outside the city. In 2024 the city marked 1,720 years since his death.

On the site of his burial, between the late 11th and early 12th centuries, the basilica of San Simplicio was built, the most important Romanesque church in Gallura. Built entirely of granite, plain and solemn, with three aisles and a façade divided by pilasters and small arches, it holds fragments of medieval frescoes and reused Roman inscriptions. For centuries it was the cathedral of the diocese, and it is still the heart of the festival.

Festival week

The festival lasts a week, with a programme combining religious rites, popular traditions and big concerts. It opens with the blessing of the ex-voto banners, offered by the faithful in thanks for a grace received, which are gathered in Piazza San Simplicio and carried in procession through the centre. In the evening fireworks over the sea light up the harbour.

The following days bring evenings of Sardinian singing with the cantadores and choirs of Gallura, concerts by Italian artists on the stage in Parco Fausto Noce and the Olbia gulf mussel festival, served with Vermentino di Gallura. There is also a youth rowing race, sa Remata, recalling the city's bond with the sea.

15 May

The saint's day begins at dawn with the Diana: the town band walks the streets to wake the city. In the morning a procession led by the bishop accompanies the authorities and the committee to the basilica, where a pontifical mass is celebrated. In the afternoon folk groups from all over Gallura and Sardinia arrive and perform in the squares, and at 6 pm the great procession sets off with the saint's statue, costume groups, bands and choirs. The evening ends with the regional folk festival.

The Palio della Stella

One of the most awaited moments is the Palio della Stella, a horse race run along Viale Isola Bianca by the sea, with horses and riders representing dozens of Gallura municipalities. The horses are blessed before the start, and the prize is a banner with the image of San Simplicio. It is a short, very fast race, followed by large crowds behind the barriers.

To close the week, the basilica hosts Mesu Maju in Coro, a choral concert of Sardinian folk music.

Tips

The festival takes place in mid-May, peaking on the 15th, but the main events, such as the palio and concerts, can fall on different days depending on the year: the full programme is published by the San Simplicio Committee and the City of Olbia. May is a perfect month for Gallura: the sea is starting to be warm enough for swimming, the beaches of Pittulongu, Bados and Porto Istana are still quiet, and Olbia is very easy to reach by air and ferry. Take the chance to visit the Archaeological Museum with its Roman ships, the Sa Testa sacred well and Pedres castle, or make a trip to Tavolara and San Teodoro.