Sanluri

Sanluri is a farming town in the Medio Campidano, on the great plain that crosses Sardinia from Cagliari to Oristano. Its name is linked to one of the decisive events of Sardinian history, the battle of Sanluri in 1409, and to a unique monument: the medieval castle, the only one in Sardinia still intact and habitable. Sanluri is also famous for its bread, made with durum wheat from the plain, and for its rural traditions. From 2005 to 2016 it shared with Villacidro the role of capital of the province of Medio Campidano.

The battle of Sanluri

On 30 June 1409, in the countryside of Sanluri, the army of the Giudicato of Arborea, led by William III of Narbonne, clashed with the Aragonese troops of Martin the Younger, King of Sicily. The Aragonese victory was clear and marked the beginning of the end of the Giudicato of Arborea, the last independent Sardinian kingdom: a few years later, in 1420, its lands passed definitively to the Crown of Aragon. The battlefield is still called Su Bruncu de sa Battalla, the hill of the battle. Martin the Younger died a few weeks later in Cagliari, struck by malaria. The battle is remembered every year with a historical re-enactment, Sa Battalla, with performers in medieval costume, parades and shows.

The castle

Sanluri castle, also called the castle of Eleonora d'Arborea, was built in the 14th century as a border fortress between the Giudicato of Arborea and the Aragonese lands. It has a square plan with corner towers and stone walls. It is the only Sardinian medieval castle still intact and inhabited, and it is privately owned. Inside is the Duca d'Aosta Risorgimento Museum, with weapons, uniforms, documents, relics and mementos of Italian history from the Risorgimento to the world wars, and a collection of waxworks and art objects.

The town

The centre of Sanluri keeps Campidano houses of mud brick, ladiri, with large courtyards and arched gateways, typical of the plain. The parish church of Nostra Signora delle Grazie, of Catalan Gothic layout, dominates the centre. On the hill of San Pietro stands the Capuchin convent, which houses the Ethnographic Museum, with a rich collection of objects from the farming and religious life of the Campidano: farm tools, textiles, furnishings and sacred objects.

Bread

Sanluri is one of Sardinia's bread capitals. Durum wheat grown in the Marmilla and Campidano is turned in the town's bakeries into traditional loaves such as civraxiu, a large loaf with a crisp crust and soft crumb, and into decorated breads for festivals. Sanluri bread is found all over the island, and the tradition of craft bakeries is still very much alive.

Festivals

Besides the battle re-enactment, Sanluri celebrates the religious feasts of the Campidano calendar with processions and traditional costumes. In January the Sant'Antonio bonfires are lit, and in spring and summer country festivals and food fairs liven up the town. Bread and wheat traditions are at the heart of many events.

Food

Sanluri cooking is that of the Campidano: bread, homemade pasta such as malloreddus and culurgiones, pulse soups, roast meats and cheese. Sweets include pardulas, pabassinas and tiliccas. The wines are Nuragus, Monica and Cannonau from the nearby hills.

Getting there

Sanluri lies on the Carlo Felice highway, about 45 minutes from Cagliari and 40 from Oristano. It is a good base to visit the Marmilla, with the UNESCO-listed Su Nuraxi nuraghe at Barumini, the Giara di Gesturi with its little horses, Sardara with its spa and the Sant'Anastasia well temple, Villacidro and Monte Linas.

What to see

• Castle of Eleonora d'Arborea
• Convento dei Cappuccini e museo
• Parish church of Nostra Signora delle Grazie
• Villaggio di Corti Beccia

Nearby hikes

• Giara di Gesturi20 km

Nearby towns

• Furtei · 4 km
• Segariu · 7 km
• Villamar · 8 km
• Villanovaforru · 8 km
• Sardara · 9 km
• Samassi · 9 km
• San Gavino Monreale · 9 km
• Lunamatrona · 10 km

Sources: Grande Enciclopedia della Sardegna; ISTAT. Original texts by Gotosardinia.