The Supramonte is the wild heart of Sardinia: a white limestone plateau between Oliena, Orgosolo, Dorgali, Urzulei and Baunei, cut by deep gorges, covered in ancient holm oaks and scrub, with almost no roads and no villages. To the east it plunges into the sea in cliffs hundreds of metres high, and in the clefts open the coves of the Gulf of Orosei, reachable only by boat or on foot. For centuries it was the realm of shepherds, charcoal burners and bandits; today it is one of the finest hiking destinations in Europe.
This eight-day itinerary offers one hike a day, of varying difficulty, from two comfortable bases: Cala Gonone for the Supramonte of Dorgali and Oliena, and Santa Maria Navarrese for that of Baunei. You walk to Cala Luna, descend into the Su Gorropu gorge, climb to the hidden village of Tiscali, cross the Golgo plateau to Cala Goloritzé and finish among the tacchi of Ulassai. You don't need to be a mountaineer, but you do need to be reasonably fit.
Itinerary at a glance
- Duration: 8 days, 7 nights
- Distance: about 350 km by car, Olbia to Olbia, plus about 70 km on foot
- Transport: hire car, boats back from some coves
- Best time: April, May, June, September and October; in summer it is too hot to walk in the middle of the day
- Indicative budget: about €1,050 per person sharing a double room, with two guided days, flights and ferries excluded
- Ideal for: fit hikers, couples and groups of friends, families with teenagers used to walking
- Cala Gonone: the base on the Gulf of Orosei
- Cala Luna: the path from Cala Fuili
- Su Gorropu gorge: the canyon
- Tiscali: the hidden village
- Monte Corrasi: the Supramonte summit
- Golgo: the plateau and the sinkhole
- Cala Goloritzé: the pinnacle by the sea
- Pedra Longa: the limestone spire
- Ulassai: the tacchi and Maria Lai
The Supramonte in brief
The Supramonte limestone formed more than 150 million years ago on the floor of a tropical sea. Water has carved it into sinkholes, caves and gorges, and today the rivers flow mostly underground. Shepherds built cuiles here, stone shelters with conical roofs of juniper trunks, and paths that are still followed today. Mouflon, golden eagles, reintroduced griffon vultures and Sardinian deer live here. See Nuoro and the Barbagia, Ogliastra and our page on hiking in Sardinia.
- 150 million years agoLimestone is laid down on the floor of a tropical sea
- 1500 BCThe Nuragic people build the village of Tiscali
- 1900Shepherds roam the plateau with their cuiles
- 1987Mario Verin and Peppino Cicalò trace the Selvaggio Blu
- TodayAccess to Cala Goloritzé is limited in summer
Day 1: arrival in Cala Gonone
From Olbia airport drive down the coast to Cala Gonone (about an hour and a half), the seaside hamlet of Dorgali, wedged between the mountains and the gulf. In the afternoon take an easy walk to Cala Cartoe or along the seafront, and book boats and guides for the following days. Dine on fresh fish with a glass of Dorgali Cannonau.
Where to stay: in Cala Gonone, for four nights.
Day 2: the path to Cala Luna
From Cala Fuili, south of the village, the coastal path to Cala Luna sets off: about four and a half kilometres, two hours or a little more, up and down among holm oaks, junipers and limestone cliffs dropping to the sea. The path is waymarked but stony, and in places exposed to the sun. Cala Luna is one of Sardinia's most famous beaches, with caves carved into the rock and a pond behind where the Codula di Luna stream meets the sea. After a swim, return to Cala Gonone on one of the scheduled boats that run in season.
- Ascent: about 300 metres in total
- Difficulty: moderate
Day 3: the Su Gorropu gorge
The Su Gorropu gorge, carved by the Flumineddu river, is one of the deepest canyons in Europe, with walls up to four hundred metres high. There are two ways in: from the Genna 'e Silana pass on the SS125, with a descent of about two hours and a harder climb back, or from the Oddoene valley near Dorgali, along the river. A small fee is charged at the entrance to the gorge. Inside you walk among huge water-polished boulders and can continue to the point where equipment and a guide are needed. See Urzulei.
- Ascent: about 500 metres from Genna 'e Silana
- Difficulty: moderate to hard for the climb back
Day 4: Tiscali and the Lanaitto valley
Drive towards Oliena and into the Lanaitto valley, one of the loveliest in the Supramonte. From here the path to Tiscali sets off (about two hours one way): it climbs the mountainside, threads a passage between rocks and enters a great collapsed sinkhole where the Nuragic people built a hidden village, invisible from outside. The light filtering through the opening in the rock is magical. In the afternoon visit the sacred spring of Sa Sedda 'e sos Carros and, if open, the Sa Oche cave, the "cave of the voice", from which comes the roar of the underground river. See also the Nuragic civilisation itinerary.
- Ascent: about 400 metres
- Difficulty: moderate
Day 5: Monte Corrasi and Oliena
For a real mountain day, climb Monte Corrasi, the highest peak in the Supramonte (1,463 metres), with a guide or following the paths from Oliena and Maccione. From the top you see the Gennargentu, the Nuoro plain and, on clear days, the sea. If you'd rather rest, visit Oliena and the murals of Orgosolo, and in the evening dine near Su Gologone, Sardinia's largest karst spring, with turquoise water gushing out of the rock.
- Ascent: about 900 metres
- Difficulty: hard
Day 6: the Golgo and Cala Goloritzé
Drive south along the SS125, one of the island's most scenic roads, to Baunei (about an hour and a half), and up to the Golgo plateau, with the little church of San Pietro, donkeys and pigs grazing and the Su Sterru sinkhole, about 270 metres deep. From Su Porteddu the path to Cala Goloritzé sets off: about an hour and a quarter downhill through holm oaks and junipers to a beach of white pebbles dominated by the 143-metre Monte Caroddi spire, a natural monument. In summer access is limited, with a small ticket to book in advance. The way back is uphill: start early.
- Ascent: about 450 metres
- Difficulty: moderate
Where to stay: in Santa Maria Navarrese, for three nights.
Day 7: Pedra Longa and the Baunei coast
From Santa Maria Navarrese drive to Pedra Longa, a 128-metre limestone spire rising from the sea. This is where the first section of the Selvaggio Blu, Italy's toughest trek, begins: even just the first two or three hours, up to the Punta Giradili pass, give you a sense of the grandeur of this coast. In the afternoon take a boat trip from Santa Maria Navarrese to the coves of the gulf: Cala Mariolu, Cala Biriola, Cala Sisine and the natural pool of Venere.
- Ascent: about 600 metres to Punta Giradili
- Difficulty: hard, with exposed sections
Day 8: Ulassai and the tacchi of Ogliastra
Before leaving, drive to Ulassai (about an hour), a village at the foot of the tacchi, great towers of dolomitic limestone. Ulassai is the home of the artist Maria Lai, who in 1981 tied every house in the village together with a sky-blue ribbon in a collective work, Legarsi alla montagna; the Stazione dell'arte collects her works. Visit the Su Marmuri cave, one of Sardinia's largest, and walk the walkways hanging from the cliffs. Then drive back to Olbia (about two and a half hours) or down to Cagliari (about two hours).
How much it costs
| Item | Indicative cost per person |
|---|---|
| Accommodation, 7 nights sharing a double room (mid-range hotels and B&Bs) | €420-630 |
| Hire car for 8 days shared by two, plus fuel | €170-250 |
| Guides (Gorropu or Corrasi and Selvaggio Blu, two days) | €120-200 |
| Boats and admissions (return from Cala Luna, cove tour, Gorropu, Goloritzé, Tiscali, Su Marmuri, Stazione dell'arte) | €90-130 |
| Meals | €230-300 |
| Total | about €1,030-1,510, flights and ferries excluded |
To save money: the hikes to Cala Luna, Tiscali and Goloritzé can be done without a guide, following the waymarks; many B&Bs offer packed breakfasts. Outside July and August prices in Cala Gonone and Santa Maria Navarrese fall considerably. See car hire.
Practical information
- Water: there are no springs along the Supramonte paths; carry at least two litres each.
- Navigation: limestone is confusing, paths are easily lost and phones often have no signal; download GPS tracks and take a guide for longer hikes.
- Selvaggio Blu: the full route, five or six days long, has climbing sections and abseils; it is only done with expert guides and supply drops by boat.
- Heat: from mid-June to mid-September set off at dawn and be back by noon.
- Boats: services to the coves depend on the sea; in strong wind they may be cancelled.
Variations
- Codula di Luna: the canyon that runs down to Cala Luna from Urzulei, a full-day trek with a guide.
- The Gennargentu: the climb to Punta La Marmora, Sardinia's highest peak, from Desulo or Fonni.
- The Orgosolo Supramonte: the Montes forest and Monte Novo San Giovanni; see Orgosolo.
What to read before you go
A good hiking guide to the Supramonte and the Gulf of Orosei, and a guide to the Selvaggio Blu. See also our page on things to do in Sardinia.
Final tips
- Pace: alternate a demanding day with an easier one; limestone and sun are more tiring than they look.
- Combinations: from Oliena you can link up with the Barbagia carnival itinerary; from Baunei with the wine and food itinerary and the Cannonau of Ogliastra.
- A tip: reach Cala Goloritzé at eight in the morning, before the boats: for an hour the beach and the spire will be yours alone.
Where to stay
Tours and activities in Sardinia
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