Sa Chida Santa, Holy Week in Sardinia

In Sardinia Holy Week is called sa Chida Santa, and it is one of the most intense moments of the year. For almost four centuries Sardinia was part of the Crown of Aragon and then of the Kingdom of Spain, and from there came the Passion rites: hooded confraternities, processions of the Mysteries, the deposition of Christ from the cross, the meeting of the Risen Christ and the Madonna on Easter morning. But on the island these rites have blended with polyphonic singing, with local languages and with a deep popular faith, and have become something unique.

Castelsardo and the Lunissanti

The most famous and mysterious rite is the Lunissanti of Castelsardo, on Holy Monday. Before dawn the brothers of the Oratory of Santa Croce, in long white tunics with hoods covering their faces, gather in the church of Santa Maria in the medieval village. They carry the Mysteries, the symbols of the Passion: the chalice, the nails, the crown of thorns, the cross, the ladder, the hammer, the lance. They set off in procession and walk for kilometres to the Romanesque basilica of Nostra Signora di Tergu, in the Anglona countryside, where they spend the day in prayer.

At sunset they head back to Castelsardo. By the time they reach the village it is night: the procession climbs the steps and lanes lit only by torches and candles, while three choirs of brothers sing the Miserere, the Stabat Mater and the Jesu in several voices. These chants have been handed down orally for generations and resemble nothing else: anyone who has heard them once, in the dark of the village above the sea, will hardly forget them.

Catalan Alghero

In Alghero Holy Week, the Setmana Santa, has a strong Catalan imprint, like the language still spoken in the town. The rites begin on the Friday before Palm Sunday with the procession of the Addolorata and continue all week. The climax is the Desclavament on Good Friday: in the cathedral of Santa Maria the brothers take the statue of Christ down from the cross, removing the nails and crown of thorns one by one and showing them to the faithful. Then the funeral procession crosses the old town at sunset, lit by torches and lanterns veiled in red. On Easter morning the Encontre, the meeting of the Risen Christ and the Madonna, closes the week in celebration.

Iglesias and the Spanish rites

In Iglesias the Passion rites date back to the 17th century and are the most important event of the year. They are kept by the confraternities, whose hooded members are known locally as baballotti. On Holy Thursday the brothers lay the table of the Last Supper; Good Friday, Chenàpura Santa, is dedicated to the Cross: in the morning the brothers climb to the Costera quarter, and in the evening come s'Iscravamentu, the deposition, and the funeral procession of the Descenso through dark streets lit only by torches. It is one of the most heartfelt Holy Weeks in Italy.

Cagliari and Sassari

In Cagliari the archconfraternities hold rites all week. On Wednesday the sisters prepare Christ for s'Incravamentu, the crucifixion; on Good Friday the procession of the Misterius carries seven statues of the Passion to seven churches, like the stations of a Way of the Cross; on Friday evening the funeral procession accompanies the dead Christ to the cathedral. In those days even Sant'Efisio comes out dressed in mourning.

In Sassari the procession of the Mysteries comes out on Holy Tuesday, with five statues that tradition dates to 1685. It is led by a drummer, followed by brothers striking the ground with li rocci, long staffs that mark the pace.

The songs of the confraternities

One of the treasures of Sardinian Holy Week is the singing of the confraternities, in four or five male voices, handed down by ear. In Santu Lussurgiu su Concordu accompanies the rites with the Miserere and Passion songs; in Cuglieri the women sing the gosos of the Sorrowful Mother while the men carry candles; in Aggius, in Gallura, the a tasgja singing is preserved. Holy Tuesday Mysteries processions are also traditional in Bosa and many villages of the Planargia and Montiferru.

S'Incontru, on Easter morning

On Easter morning, across almost the whole island, s'Incontru is celebrated. Two processions set off from different churches: one carries the statue of the Risen Christ, the other the Madonna, often veiled in mourning. When they meet, in a square or along the main street, the statues are made to bow three times to each other, the Madonna's black veil is removed, blanks are fired and the bells ring out. In Oliena, Sarule, Orosei and Galtellì s'Incontru is particularly moving, with traditional costumes and the whole village taking part.

Tips

Holy Week falls between March and April, when Sardinia is green, in flower and still quiet. The rites are religious and should be followed with respect: silence during processions, no flash, keep your distance from the brothers. Times change every year and are published by parishes and town councils. Castelsardo, Alghero and Iglesias draw many visitors: for the Lunissanti, arrive in Castelsardo in the late afternoon and find a spot in the old village before the procession returns.