Porto Torres

Porto Torres is the port town of north-western Sardinia, facing the Gulf of Asinara. For many travellers it is above all the ferry port for Genoa, Barcelona, Marseille and Toulon, but Porto Torres is also one of the oldest towns on the island: it was the Roman colony of Turris Libisonis, it keeps one of Sardinia's finest Romanesque basilicas, San Gavino, and it is the gateway to the Asinara National Park, the island of the white donkeys.

History

Porto Torres was born as a Roman colony, probably founded by Julius Caesar or shortly after, in the 1st century BC, with the name Turris Libisonis. It was the only Roman colony in Sardinia and one of the island's main ports, linked to Karales, today's Cagliari, by a great road. The town had baths, temples, a forum and an aqueduct, and the Roman bridge over the Rio Mannu, with seven arches, is still partly visible.

In the Christian era Turris was the seat of one of Sardinia's oldest bishoprics, linked to the cult of the martyrs Gavino, Proto and Gianuario, killed according to tradition during Diocletian's persecutions. In the Middle Ages it was the first capital of the Giudicato of Torres, or Logudoro, before the court moved inland to Ardara. With raids from the sea and malaria the town declined, and its inhabitants moved to Sassari. The port revived in the 19th century, and in 1842 Porto Torres became an independent municipality again. In the 20th century the town grew with the petrochemical complex, now partly converted to green chemistry.

The basilica of San Gavino

The basilica of San Gavino is the largest Romanesque building in Sardinia. Built in the 11th and 12th centuries of limestone, it has a unique shape: two opposite apses, one east and one west, and no main façade. Inside, reused Roman columns divide the three naves, and the crypt holds the relics of the Turris martyrs. The basilica's atrium also has Roman and early Christian sarcophagi. On the coast at Balai stand the churches of San Gavino a Mare and Balai Vicino, linked to the legend of the saints' martyrdom.

The archaeological area

The Turris Libisonis Archaeological Park, near the station, keeps the remains of the Roman baths, known as the Palace of King Barbaro, with rooms, mosaics and the frigidarium, and a stretch of paved road with Roman houses. The Antiquarium Turritano displays statues, mosaics, pottery and inscriptions found in the excavations. The Roman bridge nearby is one of the largest preserved in Sardinia.

The sea

The Porto Torres seafront is pleasant for a walk, from the Aragonese Tower at the port to the beaches of Balai, Scogliolungo and Acque Dolci, small sandy coves between rocks much loved by locals. East of town begins the long sandy coast of Platamona, which runs to Sorso and Castelsardo. Further west, towards Stintino, are some of the most beautiful beaches in Sardinia, such as La Pelosa.

Asinara

From Porto Torres ferries and excursions leave for the island of Asinara, now a National Park. For over a century the island was a penal colony and a maximum security prison, closed in the 1990s, and so its nature has stayed almost intact. It is visited on guided tours, by bike, by 4x4 or on the electric train, among white beaches such as Cala Sabina and Cala d'Oliva, the old Fornelli prison, the Cala Reale quarantine station and the famous white donkeys, a population unique in the world, along with mouflon, horses and many bird species.

Festivals

The most heartfelt festival is the Festha Manna, dedicated to the holy martyrs Gavino, Proto and Gianuario. On 3 May the wooden statues of the martyrs are carried in procession from the basilica to the church of Balai Vicino, about two kilometres away, and stay there until Pentecost, when they return in procession to the basilica. The celebrations peak on Whit Monday, with religious rites, traditional costumes, concerts and events. In summer the town also hosts music festivals. In January the Sant'Antonio bonfires are lit.

Food

Porto Torres cooking combines the sea and land of the Sassari area: fish soups, lobster, sea urchins, squid and octopus, and traditional dishes such as fainè, the chickpea flatbread of Ligurian origin, and snails. The wines are those of northern Sardinia, such as Cagnulari and Vermentino.

Getting there

Porto Torres has a large port with ferries to Genoa, Barcelona, Marseille and Toulon, and links to Asinara. It is about twenty minutes from Sassari, connected by a dual carriageway and railway, and about 40 minutes from Alghero airport. From here you easily reach Stintino, Alghero, Castelsardo and the Gulf of Asinara coast.

What to see

• Basilica of San Gavino
• Parco archeologico di Turris Libisonis e Antiquarium
• Bridge romano
• Torre aragonese
• Church of San Gavino a mare
• Beach of Balai

Festivals and traditions

• Martiri turritani25 April
• Festa grande dei martiri, fino a PentecostePentecost
• Martiri turritani25 October

Nearby beaches

• La Pelosa, Stintino21 km
• Porto Ferro23 km

Nearby towns

• Sorso · 16 km
• Sennori · 17 km
• Sassari · 18 km
• Stintino · 18 km
• Olmedo · 21 km
• Tissi · 22 km
• Usini · 23 km
• Uri · 23 km

Sources: Grande Enciclopedia della Sardegna; ISTAT. Original texts by Gotosardinia.