Selargius, Sardinia: what to see, festivals and where to stay

Selargius is one of the most populous towns in the Cagliari metropolitan area, a few kilometres from the capital, on the edge of the Molentargius wetland. Today it is a modern, residential centre, but it keeps an old heart of Campidano houses, courtyards and churches, and a tradition that makes it famous all over Sardinia: the Ancient Selargius Wedding, a traditional nuptial ceremony that every September fills the streets with costumes, carts and music. Selargius is the ideal place to discover the Campidano of Cagliari, halfway between city and countryside.

History

The area was inhabited in pre-Nuragic and Nuragic times, and at Su Coddu and Canelles archaeologists found the remains of Neolithic and Eneolithic villages. In Punic and Roman times the plain was farmed with wheat and vines. In the Middle Ages Selargius belonged to the Giudicato of Cagliari, in the curatoria of Campidano, and then passed to the Pisans and the Aragonese. For centuries it remained a farming town, famous for its vegetable gardens, vineyards and orchards. In the 20th century it grew rapidly with the expansion of Cagliari, becoming a town of almost thirty thousand people.

The historic centre

The old centre of Selargius keeps many Campidano houses, the domus a lolla, built of mud brick with a large courtyard and loggia, where family life and farm work took place. Some have been restored and opened as house museums. The parish church of Santa Maria Assunta, in Catalan Gothic style, is the main monument, with a fine portal and bell tower. Other historic churches include the medieval churches of San Giuliano and San Lussorio.

The Selargius Wedding

The Ancient Selargius Wedding, also known as the Selargius Wedding, takes place every September and re-enacts the traditional wedding rite of the Campidano. A bride and groom in traditional dress cross the town accompanied by relatives, friends and folk groups from all over the island, on ox-drawn carts and to the sound of launeddas. First comes sa cantada, the serenade beneath the bride's window, then the trousseau is carried on carts to the new home; on Sunday, in the parish church of the Assunta, after the exchange of rings the couple's hands are joined by sa cadena, a small silver chain. The festival draws thousands of people and ends with music, dancing and local food.

Nature

Part of the Selargius area lies within the Molentargius-Saline Nature Park, a wetland between Cagliari, Quartu and Quartucciu, famous for the pink flamingos that nest here. The park has trails and cycle paths and is ideal for birdwatching. From town you reach the Poetto beaches and the Quartu coast in a few minutes.

Festivals

Besides the Wedding, Selargius celebrates Santa Maria Assunta in August and the feasts of San Giuliano and San Lussorio, with processions and popular events. In January the Sant'Antonio bonfires are lit. At festivals you can see the traditional Selargius costumes, among the most elegant in the Campidano.

Food

Selargius cooking is that of the Campidano of Cagliari: malloreddus alla campidanese, culurgiones, soups of pulses and garden vegetables, roast meats, and sweets such as pardulas, amaretti, pabassinas and gueffus. The wines are Cannonau, Monica and Nuragus, made locally.

Getting there

Selargius is about 10 minutes from Cagliari and linked to the city by light rail and urban buses. Cagliari Elmas airport is about 15 minutes away. From here you easily reach Quartu Sant'Elena, Quartucciu, Monserrato, Settimo San Pietro and the coast of Villasimius.