Monserrato

Monserrato is a town in the Cagliari metropolitan area, north of the capital, on the Campidano plain. Until the 19th century it was called Pauli Pirri, the village of the marsh, and for many centuries it was a large farming village, famous for its vineyards and wines. Today it is a modern town, home to the University Citadel and the University of Cagliari Hospital, but its old centre keeps courtyard houses of the Campidano, old churches and a strong rural identity, expressed in its festivals and food.

History

The area was inhabited in pre-Nuragic and Nuragic times, and in Roman times the plain was farmed to supply Karales. In the Middle Ages the village of Pauli belonged to the Giudicato of Cagliari, in the curatoria of Campidano. Under the Aragonese and Spanish it became a prosperous farming centre, tied to vines and wheat. In 1888 the village took the name Monserrato, after the famous Catalan sanctuary. In 1928 it was merged with the municipality of Cagliari along with other nearby towns, and only in 1991, after a long campaign by its inhabitants, did it become independent again.

The historic centre

The heart of Monserrato is a grid of narrow streets with typical Campidano courtyard houses, built of ladiri, mud bricks, with large arched gateways opening onto inner courtyards. Here there were once wine cellars, presses and stables, and some courtyards are still used for events. The parish church of Sant'Ambrogio, with its bell tower, is the town's main monument. Nearby are other historic churches and squares where festivals take place.

Wine

For centuries Monserrato was one of the most important wine centres in southern Sardinia. Its vineyards on the plain produced mainly Monica, Nasco, Malvasia, Moscato and Nuragus, sold in Cagliari and shipped for export. In the 20th century the cooperative winery gathered the grapes of local growers. The wine tradition is still alive in cellars and festivals.

The university town

Monserrato is home to the University Citadel, the large science campus of the University of Cagliari, with medicine, science and biology faculties, and the University Hospital. Students and researchers make the town lively, with services, bars and frequent links to Cagliari. Light rail connects Monserrato with the city centre and nearby towns.

Festivals

Monserrato's festivals follow the Campidano religious calendar, with processions, traditional costumes and launeddas. The feast of Sant'Ambrogio, the patron, is held in December, and in summer there are feasts for other saints with music, dancing and local food. In January the Sant'Antonio bonfires are lit. In autumn wine events and open courtyards let visitors see the old houses of the centre.

Food

Monserrato cooking is that of the Campidano of Cagliari: malloreddus, culurgiones, fregola, vegetable soups, roast meats and snails. Sweets include pardulas, amaretti, pabassinas and almond sweets made for festivals. The wines are Monica, Nasco, Moscato and Nuragus.

Getting there

Monserrato is about 10 minutes from the centre of Cagliari, linked by light rail, urban buses and the SS554. Elmas airport is about 15 minutes away. From here you easily reach Selargius, Sestu, Quartucciu, Quartu Sant'Elena and the Poetto beaches.

What to see

• Old town
• Church of San Lorenzo

Festivals and traditions

• San Lorenzo10 August
• Madonna di Monserrato8 September

Nearby beaches

• Poetto6 km

Nearby hikes

• Sella del Diavolo7 km
• Foresta dei Sette Fratelli24 km

Nearby towns

• Selargius · 2 km
• Quartucciu · 3 km
• Quartu Sant'Elena · 4 km
• Cagliari · 5 km
• Settimo San Pietro · 5 km
• Sestu · 7 km
• Sinnai · 7 km
• Maracalagonis · 8 km

Sources: Grande Enciclopedia della Sardegna; ISTAT. Original texts by Gotosardinia.